Haberdashery Tips and Notions
Create A Sewing Kit
Most kits on the market leave something out or have an item that is rubbish quality which will lead to more frustration than end up spending the money you may have saved.
A storage container is a great place to start.
Items to include in a sewing kit:
- 2 pair of scissors - an inexpensive pair of paper scissors and a good quality pair of fabric shears. By including both pairs of scissors, you are insuring that the fabric scissors will last a long time providing you only cut fabrics with them.
- Straight pins and a Pin Cushion. Many people, find the quilting pins with coloured head pins, easier to find and handle. Visit a haberdashery shop and see the vast assortment available on today's market. A magnetic pin holder is also available in some haberdashery shops.
- A tape measure
- Tracing wheel - there are smooth wheels and spoke wheels on the market. Each has its place and are great notions for any sewer to have on hand.
- Dressmaker`s carbon - this is a special carbon paper that is available in combination packs or for light fabric or for dark fabric. This is available in haberdashery shops that have a fabric department or at fabric shops.
- A gauge - This is a great tool for making accurate measurements and for tracing straight lines such as darts.
- A seam ripper - These are available in many sizes and some are glorified. You don`t need anything fancy. Just something that will do the job. All new seam rippers are sharp and precise.
- Hand sewing needles - a nice assortment to fit various sewing needs.
- Thread - a variety of basic colours in a good quality thread. This is one place the skimping is not worth while.
Optional Items
- Rotary Cutter, cutting mats and quilting rulers - These are fantastic to have on hand when cutting straight lines.
- Thread Snips - These are a very handy device to have next you your sewing machine. They are available in a variety of colors. These make cutting thread easier and faster than using standard scissors since thread snips are spring loaded and one quick snip and the job`s done.
- A Sewing Magazine Gift Subscription. I personally recommend Sew News and Threads or Sew Magazine.
- Sewing Books
- A few sewing buttons - You never know when they will come in handy.
- A notebook with page protectors and print outs of the many, many free on line projects.
- Hardware Bin organizer Boxes - Available in most haberdashery shops. Some are able to be hung on the wall and make a great organizer for machine feet and tools.
- Thread racks - Make your own or explore the many available on the market at most fabric shops. Also consider all of the different sizes you may have and the amount of different sizes.
- Lightweight fusible (iron on) interfacing - yards of it are great to have on hand. This makes a great backing for tissue patterns that becomes a favorite, to keep them strong and durable. Also available in medium and heavy.
Hand Sewing Needles
Make the correct choice when choosing a hand sewing needle to eliminate damaging fabric and make the task easier.
Description: Hand sewing needles are available in varying sizes with varying points. They guide the thread through fabric when you are hand sewing. Remember not to put a large needle through fine fabric or you risk damage and breaking the fibers
Use: Hand sewing needles are used in all types of hand sewing. The most commonly used hand sewing needles is called sharps. Sharps have a medium length (in comparison with all available needles), have a round eye for the thread and are suitable for almost any fabric.
Specialty needles are rarely used. A curved needle is not for sewing circles. It would commonly be used for hand sewing upholstery, when a straight needle would not fit.
Thick heavy needles would be used on fibers that are thick and difficult to sew through. The finer the fabric, the finer the needle you would choose.
Care and Maintenance: The Tomato pin cushion with sharpener helps to keep needles sharp and smooth and an easy place to put them while you are using them.
Available Options: Hand sewing needles come in a wide variety of shapes and forms. Test your choice of sewing needle on an inside seam to be sure it will not be making holes in the fabric.
Description: Hand sewing needles are available in varying sizes with varying points. They guide the thread through fabric when you are hand sewing. Remember not to put a large needle through fine fabric or you risk damage and breaking the fibers
Use: Hand sewing needles are used in all types of hand sewing. The most commonly used hand sewing needles is called sharps. Sharps have a medium length (in comparison with all available needles), have a round eye for the thread and are suitable for almost any fabric.
Specialty needles are rarely used. A curved needle is not for sewing circles. It would commonly be used for hand sewing upholstery, when a straight needle would not fit.
Thick heavy needles would be used on fibers that are thick and difficult to sew through. The finer the fabric, the finer the needle you would choose.
Care and Maintenance: The Tomato pin cushion with sharpener helps to keep needles sharp and smooth and an easy place to put them while you are using them.
Available Options: Hand sewing needles come in a wide variety of shapes and forms. Test your choice of sewing needle on an inside seam to be sure it will not be making holes in the fabric.
Sewing Needle Threader
Failing eyesight or just being tired can make threading a sewing needle difficult. It doesn't have to be. A needle threader solves the problem.
Description: A needle threader is usually a wire, bent into a diamond shape that is attached to a handle.
Use: A needle threader is used to make threading a sewing needle fast and easy. The wire easily passes through the eye of a needle, then opens allowing a large opening for the thread and is then pulled back through the eye of the needle.
Care and Maintenance: Use your needle threader with a needle that has a large enough eye for the thread you are using so you are not forcing the thread and needle threader though the eye of the needle. Forcing the wire can cause it to break.
Available Options: Needle threader are available in the simplest form as a small piece of aluminum with a wire attached, to a higher quality notion that has a cover to protect the wire and a built in magnifying glass.
Sewing Seam Rippers
An oddly shaped, inexpensive, sharp device that makes removing stitches possible with less likelihood of ruining the fabric.
Description: A small sewing notion that usually has two points, one sharp and one that is protected so that it will not accidentally penetrate and rip the fabric.
Use: A seam ripper is used to remove unwanted stitches. The fine tip of a seam ripper allows you to pick out single threads, decreasing the likelihood of cutting the fabric that the stitches are attached to.
Care and Maintenance: Keep your seam ripper clean and use it only for sewing tasks to keep it sharp. Keep it covered when you are not using it to prevent injuries and damage.
Available Options: The seam rippers shown here in this link are the most commonly used for sewing. Larger, heavier seam rippers are available for heavy removal jobs or cutting through heavy threads.
Expense: Seam rippers are an inexpensive sewing notion. They are worth replacing as soon as they start to dull.
The design of the handle allows the bottom blade to rest on the flat surface below the fabric without your hand lifting the fabric off the flat surface. The fabric remaining flat and smooth increases the likelihood that your cutting will be accurate.
Use: Bent-handle dressmaker shears are used for the cutting out of patterns and sewing projects. Sharp shears are the key to preventing hand fatigue and accurate cutting along pattern lines.
Care and Maintenance:
Available Options: These shears are available in simple to deluxe versions. Simple versions have ordinary blades and handles. Cushion grips of varying forms are also available. Spring-loaded versions which help hands with problems such as carpal tunnel and arthritis are also available.
Expense: The amount you spend is a matter of choice. I have seen some styles of shears for a pound to over fifty quid. The more you spend, the more comfortable the handle is apt to be and the longer the blade will stay sharp, as long as it is used for only fabric. ( Paper and card will dull most scissors very quickly )
Description: A small sewing notion that usually has two points, one sharp and one that is protected so that it will not accidentally penetrate and rip the fabric.
Use: A seam ripper is used to remove unwanted stitches. The fine tip of a seam ripper allows you to pick out single threads, decreasing the likelihood of cutting the fabric that the stitches are attached to.
Care and Maintenance: Keep your seam ripper clean and use it only for sewing tasks to keep it sharp. Keep it covered when you are not using it to prevent injuries and damage.
Available Options: The seam rippers shown here in this link are the most commonly used for sewing. Larger, heavier seam rippers are available for heavy removal jobs or cutting through heavy threads.
Expense: Seam rippers are an inexpensive sewing notion. They are worth replacing as soon as they start to dull.
Bent-handle Dressmaker Shears
Description: These shears have straight blades with a handle that is offset at an angle allowing the lower blade to stay flat on a cutting surface.The design of the handle allows the bottom blade to rest on the flat surface below the fabric without your hand lifting the fabric off the flat surface. The fabric remaining flat and smooth increases the likelihood that your cutting will be accurate.
Use: Bent-handle dressmaker shears are used for the cutting out of patterns and sewing projects. Sharp shears are the key to preventing hand fatigue and accurate cutting along pattern lines.
Care and Maintenance:
- Use them only for fabric! A sewing box or area secure from other family members is best.
- Keep the blades clean and oil them occasionally.
- Do not over extend the blades by trying to cut through too many layers at a time. Sharp shears will cut with no effort. If you have to force the shears, consider cutting less layers at a time.
- They should not be the scissors that are kept in the junk drawer or kitchen drawer. Using fabric scissors for anything other than fabric will dull them, causing uneven cutting, shredding of fabric and hand fatigue.
Available Options: These shears are available in simple to deluxe versions. Simple versions have ordinary blades and handles. Cushion grips of varying forms are also available. Spring-loaded versions which help hands with problems such as carpal tunnel and arthritis are also available.
Expense: The amount you spend is a matter of choice. I have seen some styles of shears for a pound to over fifty quid. The more you spend, the more comfortable the handle is apt to be and the longer the blade will stay sharp, as long as it is used for only fabric. ( Paper and card will dull most scissors very quickly )
Sewing Tape Measures
A tape measure is a must-have tool for sewing. Having more than one and carrying one in your purse or bag is not uncommon!
Description: A sewing tape measure is a non-stretchable flexible strip usually marked with inches on one side and centimeters on the other.
Use: Taking body measurements is the most common use of a tape measure but it can be used for any measuring task. Because it is flexible but firm, it can stand on its edge and measure the distance around an item, such as a circle.
Care and Maintenance: Tape measures require very little maintenance. Simply keeping it clean and using it for measuring will preserve a tape measure for years. If the kids were to get a hold of it for a game of tug-of-war, be sure to check the accuracy of the markings just in case it did manage to stretch.
Available Options: The size of the markings, the width of the tape measure and auto retractable are a few of the options available.
Expense: Tape measures are a very inexpensive sewing tool. Sometimes they are even given away at store openings or other promotional opportunities. A retractable tape measure for your purse is not an expensive investment and you will find many uses for it when you are out and about.
Description: A sewing tape measure is a non-stretchable flexible strip usually marked with inches on one side and centimeters on the other.
Use: Taking body measurements is the most common use of a tape measure but it can be used for any measuring task. Because it is flexible but firm, it can stand on its edge and measure the distance around an item, such as a circle.
Care and Maintenance: Tape measures require very little maintenance. Simply keeping it clean and using it for measuring will preserve a tape measure for years. If the kids were to get a hold of it for a game of tug-of-war, be sure to check the accuracy of the markings just in case it did manage to stretch.
Available Options: The size of the markings, the width of the tape measure and auto retractable are a few of the options available.
Expense: Tape measures are a very inexpensive sewing tool. Sometimes they are even given away at store openings or other promotional opportunities. A retractable tape measure for your purse is not an expensive investment and you will find many uses for it when you are out and about.
Pinking Shears
Pinking Shears allow you to cut a simple seam finish.
Description: Pinking Shears have jagged blades that fit together to cut a saw tooth type edge.
Use: A pinked edge to many tightly woven or non-fraying fabrics are sufficient as a seam finish. This is especially handy when working with light-weight fabrics that a sewn seam finish will add too much thread or weight to the seam.
On non-fraying fabric such as fleece using pinking shears helps reduce a blunt edge from showing through when pressing a seam and adds a finished look to the fabric.
Care and Maintenance:
Available Options: Pinking shears are available in five and a half inch to ten and a half inch lengths. The most common choice is eight and a half inch.
Expense: The amount you spend is a matter of choice. Look for strong blades for this type of shear. When you are going to be using them on heavy fabric, it is best to invest in a good pair.
Description: Pinking Shears have jagged blades that fit together to cut a saw tooth type edge.
Use: A pinked edge to many tightly woven or non-fraying fabrics are sufficient as a seam finish. This is especially handy when working with light-weight fabrics that a sewn seam finish will add too much thread or weight to the seam.
On non-fraying fabric such as fleece using pinking shears helps reduce a blunt edge from showing through when pressing a seam and adds a finished look to the fabric.
Care and Maintenance:
- Use them only for fabric to prevent dulling the blades! A sewing box or area secure from other family members is best.
- Keep the blades clean and oil them occasionally.
- Do not over extend the blades by trying to cut through too many layers at a time. Sharp shears will cut with no effort. If you have to force the shears, consider cutting fewer layers at a time.
- They should not be the scissors that are kept in the junk drawer or kitchen drawer. Using fabric scissors for anything other than fabric will dull them, causing uneven cutting, shredding of fabric and hand fatigue.
Available Options: Pinking shears are available in five and a half inch to ten and a half inch lengths. The most common choice is eight and a half inch.
Expense: The amount you spend is a matter of choice. Look for strong blades for this type of shear. When you are going to be using them on heavy fabric, it is best to invest in a good pair.
Bodkins
A bodkin is a handy tool to have but not a must-have item. It is a tool that helps replace drawstrings and other items that are enclosed in a casing.
Description: A bodkin looks like an over-sized sewing needle with a blunt point and a large eye.
Use: A bodkin is designed to pull an item (such as elastic, ribbon, cording or drawstring) through a casing. The blunt point, sometimes a ball point, prevents the bodkin from piercing the fabric casing, while guiding the pulled through item, through the casing.
If you do not have a bodkin a safety pin can be used to pull the item through a casing. It is just a bit more difficult to grasp and guide than a bodkin.
Care and Maintenance: No special care is required.
Available Options: A bodkin can have various textures. The varying textures allow for choices when working with different fabric types. For example; when trying to place a drawstring through a slippery fabric, I would be more apt to grab the textured bodkin so that I could gain a better grip on the bodkin as it passed through the casing.
A bodkin may also resemble large tweezers. You grip the item being pulled in the tweezers and slide a ring down over the tweezers to hold it in place, so it can be threaded through the casing. This is very helpful for an item that is too bulky to be doubled over itself when it is in the eye type of bodkin.
Expense: A bodkin typically costs under two pounds. As new products are designed with more details, the prices will increase to meet new innovations.
Description: A bodkin looks like an over-sized sewing needle with a blunt point and a large eye.
Use: A bodkin is designed to pull an item (such as elastic, ribbon, cording or drawstring) through a casing. The blunt point, sometimes a ball point, prevents the bodkin from piercing the fabric casing, while guiding the pulled through item, through the casing.
If you do not have a bodkin a safety pin can be used to pull the item through a casing. It is just a bit more difficult to grasp and guide than a bodkin.
Care and Maintenance: No special care is required.
Available Options: A bodkin can have various textures. The varying textures allow for choices when working with different fabric types. For example; when trying to place a drawstring through a slippery fabric, I would be more apt to grab the textured bodkin so that I could gain a better grip on the bodkin as it passed through the casing.
A bodkin may also resemble large tweezers. You grip the item being pulled in the tweezers and slide a ring down over the tweezers to hold it in place, so it can be threaded through the casing. This is very helpful for an item that is too bulky to be doubled over itself when it is in the eye type of bodkin.
Expense: A bodkin typically costs under two pounds. As new products are designed with more details, the prices will increase to meet new innovations.
Sewing Rotary Cutting Mats
Rotary cutting mats are a basic tool that you must have to use a rotary cutter.
Description: A rotary cutting pad is available in a variety of sizes. It is a self-healing mat that is not damaged by a rotary cutter and it does not damage the rotary cutter.
Use: A rotary cutting mat is is used as a flat surface to cut fabric with rotary tools
Care and Maintenance: They are self healing to any cuts made by the rotary cutting tool. Do not damage your mat by using it with a heavy cutting blade such as a knife or razor tool.
Use: A rotary cutting mat is is used as a flat surface to cut fabric with rotary tools
Care and Maintenance: They are self healing to any cuts made by the rotary cutting tool. Do not damage your mat by using it with a heavy cutting blade such as a knife or razor tool.
Always use a cutting mat on a hard flat surface! A cut through the mat will not heal.
Rotary cutting mats can be purchased at almost any shop that sells fabric.
Fabric Rotary Cutters
A rotary cutter is a fast way to cut accurate straight lines when used in conjunction with a cutting mat and rulers.
Description: Rotary cutters are round blades with a handle and protective cover for the blade.
Use: Rotary cutters are used in conjunction with rotary pads and rotary rulers.
Care and Maintenance: The cover should ALWAYS cover the blade when the cutter is not being used. Just as you would not use fabric scissors on paper do not use a fabric rotary blade on paper, to prevent it from becoming dull.
Available Options: Rotary cutters are available with different handles and protective devices. Always lock the blade cover when small children are in the area and the cutter is not in your hands.
If you have any sewing tips you think I should add please let me know and I may add them.
Description: Rotary cutters are round blades with a handle and protective cover for the blade.
Use: Rotary cutters are used in conjunction with rotary pads and rotary rulers.
Care and Maintenance: The cover should ALWAYS cover the blade when the cutter is not being used. Just as you would not use fabric scissors on paper do not use a fabric rotary blade on paper, to prevent it from becoming dull.
Available Options: Rotary cutters are available with different handles and protective devices. Always lock the blade cover when small children are in the area and the cutter is not in your hands.
If you have any sewing tips you think I should add please let me know and I may add them.